Recently when I talk with my girl friends to discuss some matters relating to the cheongsams, I suddenly discovered that we can no longer find the original image from this dress, and we cannot find its original appearance. I have noticed that many people on the Internet are talking about the discussion that they cannot point it clear between the Chinese dress and filming dresses, so as the cheongsam and the Chinese-style unlined gown dress. Let’s put the temperaments and the charm of the dress aside, we can learn from the styles and the designs of such dresses. And when we talk about the procedure of making the traditional Chinese dresses, we could know that the cheongsam have delicate workmanship and the embroidered pattern should be worked by a worker with his best effort. And no one else could help him to finish the job. Because of that if too many people take part in the work of the embroidery, the whole feeling would not be so harmonious.
Nowadays, lots of people will take one thing as another thing, so as the cheongsam. So many people think that all those dresses with pankous can be called as traditional Chinese dresses. That’s a wrong view actually.
Now if you search a post casually from the Internet, you can find that all dresses which contain coats and skirts are called as the cheongsam. All the Chinese style dresses have been labeled the name of cheongsam, which can make people very confused. This behavior has no difference from the behavior that the photographic studio calls their dresses as traditional Han clothing? In this case, I feel that the online shops have destroyed so many pure young girls. If you don’t have anything to do, you can watch your books and search the internet for some useful information instead of searching the online shops.
In recent years, less and less people will take the interview of others into consideration when they are going to choose wedding suits or just do something. Not like before actually, we don’t need to pay too much attention to the view of others, but we still should take our parents’ feeling into consideration.
But till the ends, what’s the difference between these clothes? And how to distinguish these dresses from these details can also be a question for us. So today, I will introduce a few points briefly.
Let’s talk about cheongsam at first. In the end what is the Chinese dress really mean?
Xiang Yang Bian has mentioned that “the so-called ‘cheongsam’ refers to the clothes which are a piece of clothing. At the same time, it must have all or parts of the following prominent typical characteristics of the appearance: a cardigan or a semi cardigan form should exist in the right side of the collar; the details of standing collars, pankous, and the slit arrangement; monolithic clothing; the plain cutting skills and so on. Although some ideas may go like that: cheongsam contains the Qizhuang of Qing Dynasty and the gown dresses for the women of Republic of China, talking from our common sense that the cheongsam is generally referring to the dress styles which sprung in 20th century” in an article written in the “the original popularity of Chinese dress”.
In simple terms, cheongsam is one kind of clothes which is just made by a piece of clothing. And such dresses use the simple straight design as the basic style, rather than follow the style of Hanfu’s style: two pieces of a set as a whole dress, containing a coat and a dress. A popular saying is that the Chinese dress is one piece, not like other dresses which has more than one piece of clothing, rather than the clothes which contains two pieces to form the suits. But now most people will divide the Chinese style unlined gown dress and dress suits and Show Wo clothing (which sprung in the late Qing Dynasty) into the category of cheongsam. But this is actually a wrong cognition about the Chinese dresses. And lots of famous stars choose show wo clothes when they are going to get married. For example, Yuqi Zhang, she wore a show wo dress during her wedding day. And we can find that she is really beautiful in this traditional Chinese dress. If you like, you can choose show wo dress as well.
Show Wo clothing (this is one kind of coat skirt in the late Qing Dynasty)
So what’s the appearance of the show wo clothing, which has almost became a legend in the history of clothing. Let’s have a look at these clothes.
Have you ever seen the TV show in which Xun Zhou plays the role of heroine? The TV show is called as the “Orange Turned Red”? Yes, that is the typical show wo clothing. The TV show “Orange Turned Red” made Xun Zhou become popular, and so does the show wo clothing.
Actually this so-called “show Wo clothing” was not originally called as “show Wo clothing”. This kind of dresses clothing is initially followed the styles of Hanfu and the coat skirt which sprung in Ming Dynasty, and later it had absorbed some elements from the ensign of the Qing Dynasty. So a new costume has been evolved. This kind of dresses is popular at the end of Qing Dynasty and the early age of Republic of China. During this period, women wear such dresses. And the main characteristic of this dress is that this dress has a standing collar or a round collar, Duijin (a kind of Chinese-style jacket with buttons down the front) or the coat with Dajin (the front of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right). And for the lower body, they would wear a horse-face skirt.
“Orange red” tells a story which happened in the Qing Dynasty and Xun Zhou played the role that has the name called show Wo in the drama and she wore such dress in the show. Then the show “Orange Turned Red” has become very popular, so the suit has been known as the show wo clothing”.
The Chinese style unlined gown dress (Dragon and phoenix suit)
Then what is so called Chinese style unlined gown dress?
Gowns in fact were the dragon and phoenix gowns, which can also be called as the skirt of grapes. And such dresses are very popular among the young people who want to hold Chinese style wedding ceremony. The bride will wear such dress to toast. Especially in Guangdong, this kind of dresses is particularly popular. The origin design of the dress belongs to the Manchurian, as a result of the enforcement of the Qing Dynasty, resulting that the Manchu style dresses had been all over the country, until now, there are still many Cantonese wear such gowns to get married.
In the skirt of grapes, the “jacket” refers to the coat and the skirt is the dress which should be worn in the lower body. And we should know that not only the process of making such dress is very picky, so is the wearing. The most distinctive characteristic of this dress is the embroidery on the clothes, which must be made by a person independently. And the worker should do the embroidery very carefully. And when making such dresses, it is never allowed that several people do the same pattern together. At that time, the identity is a symbol of status, so the pattern of the dress which is embroidered also has special meaning.
Small impatiens dresses
Then in addition to the gown dress, there is a dress which seems like the gown dress called small impatiens. “Small Impatiens Dress” is slimmer when compared with the skirt of grapes, and the collar of the dress stands high. And these clothes are named after the famous Qing courtesan “small Impatiens”, but after all, this dress is not the dress for the fair ladies, so it will always be criticized by people at that time. At Qing dynasty, the fair ladies are not allowed to wear such a dress absolutely. Even now, no woman wants to be mistress. So, when you wear clothes, you should be cautious. If the bride accidentally put on the “small Impatiens” instead of “dragon and phoenix gowns”, it would be laughable. But nowadays, we really don’t need to care so much about the view of others. We can find that the small impatiens dress is really beautiful, so if you like it, you can still wear the dress. And small impatiens dresses can show your curve of figure in a better way.
Now, let’s come to talk about the Qi zhuang of Qing dynasty.
About the origin of the Chinese dress, there have been a lot of controversies for so many years. Some people think that the cheongsam is the flag for those females of Qing dynasty, and it has been developed from Qi zhuang. These two elements have an inheritance relationship. But others think that although Qi zhuang has some influential factors to cheongsams, the two cannot be inherited. And people think cheongsam is a development from Han Fu. And even more people think that cheongsam is the result of western dress and Chinese culture. And the dress which now known as the Qipao generally refers to the cheongsam developed from republic of China.
But no matter what you want to say, there is something with no doubt that the Chinese dress is not equal to the Qi zhuang. No matter there is an inheritance relationship between these two or not. Just like the coat skirt in Ming Dynasty is not equal to the slip skirt or the curving-front robe.
Clothes for students in the Republic of China (New clothes for new civilization)
Online friends all said that the clothes for the students of Republic of China are the most beautiful clothes among the school uniforms. We all know that nowadays, the school uniforms are just look like the same, what we want is a special dress which can make us be more beautiful. So when we study, we may have more energy to learn more. And this kind of dress can make the students look pure and clear.
The white or grey blue shirt is with the design for cheongsam and a knee length black skirt. And actually what’s the name of this suit?
In the early age of Republic of China, Chinese girls are influenced by the new thoughts. Lots of students want to wear the clothes for the students of republic of China. The “new civilization” had blown a fashion wind.
Its embryonic is form the Dajin shirt which has a narrow waist line, and the length of the shirt should not be longer than the hip, short sleeves or with the sleeves which can show the elbow, the hem is arc shaped, with a little ornamentation. The skirt which can be used to match with the shirt is the black dress at the beginning, and the length of the skirts is to the ankle, then it tapered to the upper leg. After the northern expedition, the suit was formed as the image what we can see from the film and television works. And this set of clothes is famous at that time, which can be called as “civilized new clothes,” or “civilized students’ clothes”, “May 4th youth clothes” and so on.
So, ladies, we should know that not all the clothes which have the details of pankou or the lapel can be called as cheongsams.
The process of making cheongsam is very strict, from the collar, the sleeves, and the buckle until the height of the split is all very important. The choice of materials, cutting, drawing, and embroidery process is indispensable. Everything has its originality and this is the charm of cheongsam.
Finally, the cheongsam has the right lapel! Right lapel! Right lapel! The important thing should be said for three times.
Love, is the respect for the cheongsam.