The Workmanship of the details of Cheongsams

Introduction: Cheongsams are used to highlight the beautiful figures of women. So as a result, the waistline of cheongsams is becoming more and more tighten to show the female figure as far as possible. Originally the cheongsams are the clothes for Chinese people. The features of this kind of dresses are large, flat, and the length of the dress is to the foot. Most of the dresses are made of silk, which embroidered with some special patterns. And there are large embroidered border on the collars, sleeves, lapels.

Traditional Cheongsam

Traditional Cheongsam

Chinese dresses have experienced lots of changes along with the development of fashion trends. By the age of 30s, Chinese dresses were completely out of the original form, and became a kind of unique style of clothing for oriental women. At that time, the Chinese dress is famous for the Shanghai masters, and the handmade workmanship was really exquisite. And the masters of Macao’s Cheongsams shops almost all came from the mainland, and these masters learned from the Shanghai Cheongsams masters.

1, the production of the Chinese dress

The process of making Cheongsams is similar to the steps of making other kinds of clothes. First of all, the master should make the measurement for the customers, and let the customers choose the fabrics and styles to make the appropriate Cheongsams. The process of the production could be mainly divided into three parts: cutting, drawing and embroidering. The traditional cheongsams are usually with floor-length which should be longer than the ankle. But there are also short dresses. The length can be just to the last inch around the knee.

2, The classification of the collars

Cheongsam’s Collar

Cheongsam’s Collar

As we can find that the collars can be mainly divided into two categories: General collar and small impatiens collars. And general collars are divided into the circle collars and square collars. The general collar is more traditional, and the small Impatiens collar is relatively much more fashionable, which look like the pulled-down collars of T-shirts. The collars of cheongsams are hard. In the previous time, the masters would starch the white cloths, and then put them into the collars. But now, they usually use nylon instead of this traditional workmanship.

3, the types of sleeves

Cheongsam’s sleeve

Cheongsam’s sleeve

Sleeves can be broadly divided into sleeveless, short sleeves, middle sleeves and long sleeves. And in the previous time, the choice of sleeves is mainly decided according to the changes of the weather. As we all know that women in this period mainly wearing Chinese dresses to attend the banquets or other occasions. The younger women will choose the first three ones, and the older ones more like the choice of long sleeves. Usually short sleeves are four inches, middle sleeves are sixteen inches long, and then the long sleeves are between nineteen and twenty inches.

4, the types of the buttons

Pankou

Pankou

The buttons for cheongsams are different from the others, which can be look like flowers. The functions of the buttons are just the same as the buttons for current shirts. But this kind of buttons is more delicate. And the masters should make these buttons by their hands. That is to say they should weave personally. There are hundreds kinds of buttons for Chinese dresses. For examples: butterfly buttons, diamond buttons, and large flower buttons. Usually, the customers can choose the category of the buttons and the masters will make the buttons according to the requirements of the customers. The materials of the buttons should be the same as the cloth used to embroidering borders of the dresses.

5, the style of the lapels

Cheongsam’s lapel

Cheongsam’s lapel

There are not so many styles for the lapels of the cheongsams. There are seven choices usually for people to choose, including the single breasted lapel, double breasted lapels, straight lapel, surplice lapel, lute lapel, bending lapel and none lapel. In terms of production, double breasted lapels are more complex than the single breasted lapels. The masters should first open make two lapels on both sides of the front, and then suture one of them. The lapel sutured is just made for decoration, so wear a cheongsam with double breasted lapel just like the same as the single breasted ones. The only difference is that the double breasted lapels are visually more beautiful and noble. Straight cut lapels are relatively not so often used. And the surplice usually has large flower buttons, but now thin flower buttons are more often used. The shape of a curved Lapel looks like an “S” type. And because of the larger opening,  it is easily for people to wear.

6, the height of the silt

Height of Slit

Height of Slit

The slits of the cheongsams are led by a 1930s movie star called Gu Lanjun. She is the pioneering at that time, so that the cheongsams have entered another stage. In fact, cheongsam is used to outstanding the beauty of female lines. So, the design of this dress is very tight. Wearing cheongsams will make the actions become inconvenient, so the slits exist. General cheongsam slits will be opened to the knee position, but with the change of era and the people’s ideas, the slit height also increased. Now, the silts of cheongsams are really high, mainly to highlight the beauty of women. Especially people who attending the beauty pageant contestants, they will always wear the cheongsams, the slits are particularly high. That’s also the reason why the silts are so high.

7, the edges of the Cheongsams

Embroidered Border

Embroidered Border

The edges are used to cover the opening of cheongsams slits and cheongsam collars. Those used in embroidering borders of the dresses called an “edge. Usually made of silk or the cloth with the same color of the cheongsam. But if there are some patterns on the dress, the color of the edge would adopt one color of the patterns. At the previous time, the net color cheongsam, the edge will usually use the color red or green. The former is more traditional and the latter is more outstanding. Edges are also divided into single edge and double edge. The single edge is more popular and relatively young. As for the double edges, the materials are relatively wide. Because it is made of two colors, few guests will require the use of double edges.

8, the embroideries of the Chinese dresses

Embroidery

Embroidery

Wealthy women will embroider in the cheongsam with different patterns, to make cheongsam more beautiful and special. And they usually embroider dragon and Phoenix, peony, peacocks and other patterns on the dress.  The implication is auspicious. The main embroidery is made of gold, silver lines. And the pattern was embroidered by hand. In addition, some of dresses used on the stage performances will be pinned with the beads, and the price is more expensive.

9, Accessories of the dresses

Accessory

Accessory

Cheongsams must be coupled with high-heeled shoes, because trim shoes look not so beautiful. Only high heels can show the nobility and temperament of cheongsams. In addition, you must wear stockings to fit the high heels. While, you could choose the color flesh. And some females like black stockings with flower patterns. And handbags are usually used to match the collocation, hand wallet is another choice. There is no specific hairstyle, but most women are fond of combing the hair. In addition, if you wear a cheongsam with a high collar, you could wear no necklaces.

10, Cheongsams and Gown skirts

Gown is a Chinese-style unlined garment. Cheongsam is for Chinese woman, which has only one dress itself. While, gown skirts have shirt and skirt at the same time. The gown skirts were famous among the period twenties and thirties. At the first time, people choose black gown red skirt as a collocation, and later red gown and red skirt became more popular. And this tradition has been lasted till now.

The collar of the gown is fixed with Chinese general collar because  wedding dress is solemn in the traditional meaning. So there is no small impatiens collar emerging at that time. Also skirt of of it has no slits nor edges. The length of the sleeve is also different from the cheongsams. There are only long sleeved gowns, with a length of approx to wrist more than two and a half inches to three inches in order to see the bracelet and other ornaments of the bride. This kind of dresses is relatively loose, only a few of the waistline can be a little tight, which is totally different from the characteristics of cheongsam which focusing on emphasizing female figures.

Even so, there are also many similarities between these two kinds of dresses. That’s the embroideries. Gown skirts and cheongsams are more likely to embroidering dragon and Phoenix, peony, butterflies and other auspicious patterns. And using gold and silver line together to embroider dragon and Phoenix. Dragon is usually embroidered with gold lines and the phoenix is usually embroidered with silver lines.

Tips above can all become the guide lines for you when you are upset about how to choose an appropriate cheongsam for yourself.

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